Last night I went to celebrate the new year at an Irish pub here In Vang Vieng. Rather than enjoying my self as much as maybe I should have, the night just proved to reiterate why I love being in the wilderness away from that alcohol fueled madness. A lot of the tourism in Vang Vieng comes from kids from Europe and America looking to party for a few days and then go back home. Unfortunately this promotes very irresponsible tourism damaging to the area's local culture and causes prices to inflate wildly in comparison to other places in Asia.
Despite its wild party and dwindling Lao culture, vang vieng has some incredible outdoor activities around. Yesterday I went tubing through a cave that had a river running through it and kayaking down the river, not so much a rapid river in the dry season, but amazing views of the country.
Today I went for a hike into the nearby hills with no particular goal in mind. While walking brought the rice fields I was joined by a group of 8, twelve year old Lao kids, with juice boxes bulging out of their pockets. We continued together to the top of a small rocky mountain overlooking Vang Vieng. After taking a few pictures on top I started to head back down when Bu, one of the kids yelled after me.
Bu said "hey guy! Money tip guy. Money tip"
Because he had walked up with me he was under impression that he guided me up. Yeah right kid! This isn't my first time up the side of a mountain!
This is one example of the impression that wealthy tourists leave behind when they willfully hand out their money. It causes locals to think that every tourist is rich and can be taken advantage of. After another day or two here I will be making my way to the more chilled out climbing area in Laos, called Thakhek. Should be a fun few weeks here in Laos. Then it's off to India!!
Monday, December 31, 2012
Thursday, December 27, 2012
Cat Ba island December 27
Vietnam trip is becoming to be a little on the boring side. Not many climbers are left on the island during the slow season so I haven't been able to find anyone to climb with. The town of Cat Ba itself is fine as a jumping off point to explore the surrounding area, but since I'm stuck in it all day it's beginning to wear on me. The constant construction and metal cutting outside my hotel hasn't helped either.
Today as I was sitting on my balcony reading I began to get a little stir crazy and left my room with intention of going for a walk on the pier. However when I reached the bottom floor lobby I realized the staff had left the small hotel and closed the metal security gate, this trapping me inside. Annoyed and beginning to get hungry I stood on my balcony for 5 minutes or so before the idea hit me. "I have a climbing rope, a harness, and the know-how to rappel off of this fourth story balcony!!" Delighted by the idea of rappelling off my balcony onto a crowded street in Vietnam, that's exactly what I did :) Try to keep me cooped up? I don't think so!
As you can tell my boredom has resulted to such acts and as a result I have decided to prematurely leave Cat Ba. The plan is to take a bus leaving tomorrow morning to Linh Binh, Vietnam, where I will stay probably for just a night or two to check out a national park and a few other attractions. Then it's onward to Vang Vieng, Laos!
Today as I was sitting on my balcony reading I began to get a little stir crazy and left my room with intention of going for a walk on the pier. However when I reached the bottom floor lobby I realized the staff had left the small hotel and closed the metal security gate, this trapping me inside. Annoyed and beginning to get hungry I stood on my balcony for 5 minutes or so before the idea hit me. "I have a climbing rope, a harness, and the know-how to rappel off of this fourth story balcony!!" Delighted by the idea of rappelling off my balcony onto a crowded street in Vietnam, that's exactly what I did :) Try to keep me cooped up? I don't think so!
As you can tell my boredom has resulted to such acts and as a result I have decided to prematurely leave Cat Ba. The plan is to take a bus leaving tomorrow morning to Linh Binh, Vietnam, where I will stay probably for just a night or two to check out a national park and a few other attractions. Then it's onward to Vang Vieng, Laos!
Tuesday, December 25, 2012
Cat Ba island 12/26/12
As a new chapter of my travels opens in vietnam I'm beginning to get even more into the rhythm of the traveling lifestyle. I remember my first days in Bangkok being a bewildering, culture shocked experience. But now a day the bustling, loud, obnoxious city of Hanoi proved to be a confidence inspiring day.
With a couple of months of travel under my belt I found it easier to navigate the unorganized madness of motorbike crammed streets. Not once did I feel disoriented or get ripped off by locals for being a western tourist.
After a lunch of Vietnam's famous cuisine, pho soup, I wandered the streets of Hanoi. In my aimless walking I ran into a Chinese woman, Anna, who was on the train with me into Hanoi. We spent the day together around Hanoi see some sights, including a 360 year old church in the city center.
After a day in the city we were ready to get out, and booked transportation to Cat Ba island in Ha Long bay through our hotel. For $21 we were promised a taxi from the hotel to the bus station, a bus to Hai Phong city and a boat to Cat Ba island. However the receptionist at the hotel was busy this morning and forgot to call the taxi. So 11:00 came and no taxi. The receptionist jumped out of chair exclaiming she would be back shortly with a taxi in time to catch our 11:30 bus. Fifteen minutes later she pulled up in a taxi. Unfortunately we were 3 minutes late for bus. Refusing to give up the receptionist got the bus drivers cell phone number and told us to get back in the cab. We then chased the bus down the highway weaving in and out of traffic as she called the driver telling him to pull over. Miraculously she managed to work it all out and now we're on the bus bound for Hai Phong city listening to Christmas music sung by Asian celebrities. "Silent night" just doesn't sound the same in an Asian accent. Oh now "I'll be home for Christmas" just came on. Not this year, the Moore family is on three separate continents for Christmas. Me in Asia, Leona and Matt in Ireland, and everyone else in the states.
Merry to everyone, wherever you may be in the world.
-Jordan
Thursday, December 20, 2012
Today's lazy, dreary day blog post is dedicated to the most incredible deep tissue Chinese massage I've ever gotten. I went to the owner of my hostel, Lilly, and asked her where I could get the best massage in Yangshuo. She informed me without a question I should have her friend who comes to my room for a 60 minute massage for 50yuan ($4.80). Fifteen minutes later a small Chinese woman in her late 30's rode up on her motorbike. Ushering me to my room she told me in short phrased Chinese-English to strip to my under wear and lay down face down on the bed.
By the time the heater she turned on cranked the room up to a muscle melting temperature she was digging so deep into my muscles I discovered sore spots I didn't know were there.
The differences in massage from country to country have been very interesting. From thailand's "lazy man yoga" massages to china's deep tissue massage. I'll just have to get a massage in every country I go to before I decide on my favorite. Next stop Vietnam, although china's going to be hard to beat!
In honor of this cold, rainy day I think the only thing suitable to follow an awesome massage like that will be a Chinese dinner to match it!
Next report will probably be in Vietnam in a few days.
-Jordan Supertramp (anyone catch the reference?)
By the time the heater she turned on cranked the room up to a muscle melting temperature she was digging so deep into my muscles I discovered sore spots I didn't know were there.
The differences in massage from country to country have been very interesting. From thailand's "lazy man yoga" massages to china's deep tissue massage. I'll just have to get a massage in every country I go to before I decide on my favorite. Next stop Vietnam, although china's going to be hard to beat!
In honor of this cold, rainy day I think the only thing suitable to follow an awesome massage like that will be a Chinese dinner to match it!
Next report will probably be in Vietnam in a few days.
-Jordan Supertramp (anyone catch the reference?)
Tuesday, December 18, 2012
As the fates would have it, the day after I climbed my personal best, a 5.12c face climb, the temperatures a dropping and the winter rains a beginning to fall on yangshuo. Despite being deterred from climbing by the weather I had a pleasant and productive day. After a lengthy session of yoga in the morning I spoke to a travel agent about getting my Vietnam visa here in yangshuo to avoid travel expenses of going to the embassy 6 hours away to get it myself. After some haggling with a one eyed tourist agent he agreed to arrange a visa for me for about $12 more than it would cost if I went to the embassy myself. So in 3-5 days I should have a Vietnamese visa in hand and will be getting on a one way bus to Hanoi, Vietnam.
I also finished my most recent novel today about the pacific crest trail. If you are or ever have been an avid reader you know how transfixed one becomes when he has his nose buried in a book with the end in sight. As my eyes rapidly darted from line to line while I was sitting on a bench reading by the Li river, a Chinese man, to my dismay, started a conversation with me. I do enjoy talking to the locals, but it was apparent that his notebook in hand and requests of photographs meant that he was an English student and I was yet another homework assignment to speak to a foreigner. As this particularly talkative student spoke he had a very consistent stream of drool and spit bubbles spewing over his lips. Trying to muster all the patience I feel I have acquired through my travels I sat idly by listening and nodding to his "I'm from here, where are you from?" routine. All the while watching the ever more apparent spit fly from his mouth, trying to stay as far away as possible. Finally my patience wore thin and I really wanted to finish my book. How rude in the first place I thought, to interrupt a person intently reading on a quiet riverside. So I had to cut him off in med sentence a request he leave while I finish my reading. Instead he pressed on telling me about how I should take kong fu lessons from his friend. Finally forced away my peaceful bench I got up left without further comment.
Moral of my story is, while traveling have a patent tolerance to events and people crossing your path. But to an extent. At some point you have to say "fuck off" for lack of better words.
As my time here in china draws to an end I'm getting increasingly excited about travels to come. I four or five destinations in mind left to see in Southeast Asia. Then what I feel will be the culmination of this trip, INDIA. I spoke to my former traveling partner's father today who spent a lot of time traveling in India. He gave me list of highlights of his trip to research. Including laid back beach towns, one of which is Hampi India's premiere bouldering destination. He also recommended a 10 day silent meditation retreat, paid for by donation. I found his analogy of the hardships of traveling in India even more of a draw for me. "To travel in India you must be like bamboo, either sway with the wind of India, or India will snap you"
One of the reasons I decided to travel in this part of the world was to be taken out of my comfort zone and hopefully learn something in the process. Up to this point it's still been to easy by my standards. I have yet to find many comfort level or cultural challenges. This is what I hope to find in India, to have a life changing, character building experience of sorts. Plus you can live on next to nothing in India :)
I thought it would be an interesting part of this entry to include a list of cultural difference I've observed in china. Some of which I can understand, and some I find utterly perplexing.
1. When using a toothpick, Chinese people cover their mouths with their opposite hand. I asked a Chinese English teacher, why? Her response was "tradition".
2. Not so much cultural difference, but funny never the less. The Chinese sneeze has a distinct Chinese accent to the end of it.
3. In china, or all over Asia for that matter, they will burn anything, anywhere. I've seen mattresses lit afire on jungle trails. rather than recycling plastic, burn it. Instead of collecting raked leaves, just burn them.
4. Bring your earplugs to china, because no seems to use a muffler. A roaring semi in the United States is like a lullaby in comparison to a large truck on the roads of china.
5. Everyone knows that China and other Asian country eat a lot of rice and noodles. But it's not so much a stereotype like French fry eating Americans. It's more of a national everyday every meal additive. You would be hard pressed to find a single authentic dish that doesn't include rice or noodles.
6. I find it interesting that the beer is overpriced and is a useless 3.6% alcohol. But local rice wine is very cheap and is a punch-in-the-face 53% alcohol.
7. Known by many as the "great firewall of china". China blocks many websites from people within its' borders from viewing, including social networking sites, video sharing sites, and pornographic or adult material online.
8. The beggars and homeless people of china are a much more disturbing scene than that in the U.S. Here many of the people asking for handouts are seriously mental and/or physically disabled. I've seen men lying on the streets face down with dislocated, gnarled feet, one man that will never leave my mind was bald, on his knees, in a hunched head down position, and had two 1/2 inch deep indentations 4 inches wide one either side of his skull.
9. On a lighter note, the Chinese take pictures of everything! Just like they do in the states at tourist destinations. I don't think a day has gone by when I don't have to pose with Chinese tourists in yangshuo. I don't so much mind the cute Chinese girls, I'll take pictures with them all day, but the guys get on my nerves.
Loving the backpackers road.
Thursday, December 13, 2012
My apologies to some readers if at times this blog seems like more of a climbing blog than a travel blog. However, the past two days have been consumed by climbing, so I must report to the climbing community. Yesterday I sent my first 5.12b in Asia, it was a 35 meter endurathon on steep slippery, sloping holds. Feel a rush of confidence, my new climbing partner John, and I jumped another 5.12b route which wore me out to the point of failure and I was lowered off to finish the day.
Today we went to an area I had not yet been to. Just outside a nearby village, Gao Tia, we set out to a steep limestone face, nestled up on a hillside above the town. After one 5.10d warm up we skipped any grades intermediate, and went for a 5.12a which we each completed on the first run at it. Once again, feeling confident, we moved onto an interesting looking 5.12b that climbs in between two toufas. (A toufa is a rock formation common to limestone, shaped like a vertical pole with protruding features unique to every toufa.) This route would have been a perfect photo opportunity. Unfortunately, climbing photos are only possible with an odd numbered amount of people. However tomorrow we are going to moon hill, hopefully with five people. So I'll try to get some pictures to post on Facebook from the day.
My new climbing partner has been a huge help to motivate me to climb harder routes, due to the fact were both at about the same level. The other two climbers who traveled here from New Hampshire are interesting people as well. One of them, Alex, is nineteen and is majoring in biology. He's told me that a program in his school will allow him to and a group of students to travel from the Banff, Canada, through the Rockies, all the way to Colorado. Observing and studying different ecosystems and geology along the way. Alex's climb partner, Tom, was born in China and speaks Chinese. Which has been extremely helpful the few days. Thanks to Tom next time I want to order food to take away to a climbing area I can avoid my language block act of charades, simply by saying "di zoh" :)
Aside from climbing to I was stung by a hornet who didn't take kindly to my swat, while I still thought it was just a fly. For the rest of the day I had to belay John in a winter coat doubling as hornet armor.
On a more positive note, I found a new china snack that might would be great to add to my on-the-go lunches. I've never had chestnuts, but it turns out they are delicious, meaty nuts that are plentiful in china. I love different country's food, it's a reason in its' self to travel. What will I have for dinner tonight? Duck and ginseng soup? Maybe get brave and get a snail platter, or pig brains?(yeah I saw it on a menu) I also saw "old duck" on a menu. I'm hoping something was list in translation,because that doesn't sound very appetizing.
Lovin' china
-Jordan
Today we went to an area I had not yet been to. Just outside a nearby village, Gao Tia, we set out to a steep limestone face, nestled up on a hillside above the town. After one 5.10d warm up we skipped any grades intermediate, and went for a 5.12a which we each completed on the first run at it. Once again, feeling confident, we moved onto an interesting looking 5.12b that climbs in between two toufas. (A toufa is a rock formation common to limestone, shaped like a vertical pole with protruding features unique to every toufa.) This route would have been a perfect photo opportunity. Unfortunately, climbing photos are only possible with an odd numbered amount of people. However tomorrow we are going to moon hill, hopefully with five people. So I'll try to get some pictures to post on Facebook from the day.
My new climbing partner has been a huge help to motivate me to climb harder routes, due to the fact were both at about the same level. The other two climbers who traveled here from New Hampshire are interesting people as well. One of them, Alex, is nineteen and is majoring in biology. He's told me that a program in his school will allow him to and a group of students to travel from the Banff, Canada, through the Rockies, all the way to Colorado. Observing and studying different ecosystems and geology along the way. Alex's climb partner, Tom, was born in China and speaks Chinese. Which has been extremely helpful the few days. Thanks to Tom next time I want to order food to take away to a climbing area I can avoid my language block act of charades, simply by saying "di zoh" :)
Aside from climbing to I was stung by a hornet who didn't take kindly to my swat, while I still thought it was just a fly. For the rest of the day I had to belay John in a winter coat doubling as hornet armor.
On a more positive note, I found a new china snack that might would be great to add to my on-the-go lunches. I've never had chestnuts, but it turns out they are delicious, meaty nuts that are plentiful in china. I love different country's food, it's a reason in its' self to travel. What will I have for dinner tonight? Duck and ginseng soup? Maybe get brave and get a snail platter, or pig brains?(yeah I saw it on a menu) I also saw "old duck" on a menu. I'm hoping something was list in translation,because that doesn't sound very appetizing.
Lovin' china
-Jordan
Tuesday, December 11, 2012
In preparation of a long climbing day tomorrow I used today to rest, read, and get my first Chinese massage. Massages here, or at least the masseuse I went to, are more expensive than thailand's $6 massages on the beach. Still pocket change in comparison to massage prices in the states, I paid $15 for a 60 minute, herbal oil massage, with a dome heater directed at me. I'm telling you people of committed lives, drop everything and come to china, the massage will be worth the 24 hours of travel alone!
Before my massage I had a series of unfortunate events occur that I came out of with no more than a 50¥ ($9) hole in my wallet. First as I was walking to a late breakfast, passing by a small construction site with bamboo scaffolding erected outside the building, a meter long section of bamboo fell from the sky above and hit the tip of my shoe. Left wide-eyed and thankful I was an 11.5 shoe size length further ahead, I continued on with my day. After breakfast I strolled back to my room, with a well deserved rest day smile on my face. i then decided to make a cup of Chinese green tea with the electric tea kettle provided by the hostel. Once my water was hot enough I poured it into my porcelain mug, and went back to my reading while the tea steeped. Unfortunately I did not realize had used all the water in the kettle and subsequently forgot to turn off the hot plate under the plastic kettle. As I was reading my new novel by Cheryl Strayed, "Wild ( lost and then found on the pacific crest trail)" I saw a bright flash of light in my upward peripheral vision. Turns out when the tea kettle is heated dry the plastic ignites quite fast. Narrowly avoided the drapes from being lit on fire as well I grabbed the flaming plastic, threw it into the shower, and doused it with water in a hurry. After I rid my room of burnt plastic smell I went to the nearest super market and replaced the kettle for 50 yuan.
I'm not quite sure how to analyze yesterday's unlucky rocky fall at the crag, and today's close calls. Either I'm very lucky for not being harmed or burning down the climber's-inn hostel, or very unlucky for having experienced any of it. I think I'll chose very lucky and as my family would say continue to "live my life like I'm in looney toons". If the shaft of bamboo would have struck my noggin or the rock pile would have found its way to my stance I would have merely squished down to an accordion shaped human, waddled away, and returned for the next episode.
In the book i mentioned that I'm currently reading my kindle, about a woman who hiked the pacific crest trail from the Majave desert to Oregon, she describes the contents of her backpack. Having never set out on such an ambitious backpacking adventure I found it interesting what one would bring on such an endeavor.
I then realized I never described in my blog the contents of my backpack. Taking into consideration my backpack is more conservatively packed than many people I've met or travelled with over the last six weeks, all of my belongings here on the backpackers road are as follows:
1. An orange REI brand 43 liter back pack that has been with me for 2 years and 4 months of adventures
2. A 70 meter long, 9.7mm diameter, bi-pattern climbing rope
3. 13 quickdraws for climbing, 11 of which I brought and 2 I scored on climbs in Thailand
4. Climbing harness, shoes, and chalk bag
- the above items take up roughly half the total available room
5. Clothes-athletic shorts, jeans, Thai fisherman pants, and zip off quick dry pants, one T-shirt, a tonsai beach tank top, a black knock-off Ralph Lauren polo (for when I don't want to look like a dirtbag;) ) a knock off leather belt to match, three changes of underwear and socks, knock off acteryx gloves, and a knock off jack wolf skin waterproof jacket. As you may have guessed I've taken advantage of china's well mad knock off industry.
Side note: when Charlie and I arrived in china we noticed how well dressed people were in every city we went to. After a few days we realized its not because everyone is wealthy, it's because all the name brand clothes can be found in china for a fraction of the price, and just slightly less quality than what can be bought in the western world for 5times or more the price.
6. My kindle, Iphone and charging cables to accompany
7. The guide book of whatever climbing area I'm currently at. When I left thailand I left the guide with a guiding service, and I'll do the same in yangshuo
8. First aid supplies, medications for common ailments on the Asian traveler's road, which thankfully I've had to use very few times only for very minor stomach issues, tiger balm... always a climbers best friend, and the typical toiletries toothbrush, deodorant, etc
All of that totals out to be about 38 pounds, give or take a couple. I've found this this to be quite manageable. Even at times when I've had to carry my bag around tropical Thailand for a full days time.
So there you go, you know what to pack, and where to go. Now get out and travel! Until next time, provided my not set a fire, or decapitated by falling rock or bamboo that is.
Zai jian,
-Jordan
Before my massage I had a series of unfortunate events occur that I came out of with no more than a 50¥ ($9) hole in my wallet. First as I was walking to a late breakfast, passing by a small construction site with bamboo scaffolding erected outside the building, a meter long section of bamboo fell from the sky above and hit the tip of my shoe. Left wide-eyed and thankful I was an 11.5 shoe size length further ahead, I continued on with my day. After breakfast I strolled back to my room, with a well deserved rest day smile on my face. i then decided to make a cup of Chinese green tea with the electric tea kettle provided by the hostel. Once my water was hot enough I poured it into my porcelain mug, and went back to my reading while the tea steeped. Unfortunately I did not realize had used all the water in the kettle and subsequently forgot to turn off the hot plate under the plastic kettle. As I was reading my new novel by Cheryl Strayed, "Wild ( lost and then found on the pacific crest trail)" I saw a bright flash of light in my upward peripheral vision. Turns out when the tea kettle is heated dry the plastic ignites quite fast. Narrowly avoided the drapes from being lit on fire as well I grabbed the flaming plastic, threw it into the shower, and doused it with water in a hurry. After I rid my room of burnt plastic smell I went to the nearest super market and replaced the kettle for 50 yuan.
I'm not quite sure how to analyze yesterday's unlucky rocky fall at the crag, and today's close calls. Either I'm very lucky for not being harmed or burning down the climber's-inn hostel, or very unlucky for having experienced any of it. I think I'll chose very lucky and as my family would say continue to "live my life like I'm in looney toons". If the shaft of bamboo would have struck my noggin or the rock pile would have found its way to my stance I would have merely squished down to an accordion shaped human, waddled away, and returned for the next episode.
In the book i mentioned that I'm currently reading my kindle, about a woman who hiked the pacific crest trail from the Majave desert to Oregon, she describes the contents of her backpack. Having never set out on such an ambitious backpacking adventure I found it interesting what one would bring on such an endeavor.
I then realized I never described in my blog the contents of my backpack. Taking into consideration my backpack is more conservatively packed than many people I've met or travelled with over the last six weeks, all of my belongings here on the backpackers road are as follows:
1. An orange REI brand 43 liter back pack that has been with me for 2 years and 4 months of adventures
2. A 70 meter long, 9.7mm diameter, bi-pattern climbing rope
3. 13 quickdraws for climbing, 11 of which I brought and 2 I scored on climbs in Thailand
4. Climbing harness, shoes, and chalk bag
- the above items take up roughly half the total available room
5. Clothes-athletic shorts, jeans, Thai fisherman pants, and zip off quick dry pants, one T-shirt, a tonsai beach tank top, a black knock-off Ralph Lauren polo (for when I don't want to look like a dirtbag;) ) a knock off leather belt to match, three changes of underwear and socks, knock off acteryx gloves, and a knock off jack wolf skin waterproof jacket. As you may have guessed I've taken advantage of china's well mad knock off industry.
Side note: when Charlie and I arrived in china we noticed how well dressed people were in every city we went to. After a few days we realized its not because everyone is wealthy, it's because all the name brand clothes can be found in china for a fraction of the price, and just slightly less quality than what can be bought in the western world for 5times or more the price.
6. My kindle, Iphone and charging cables to accompany
7. The guide book of whatever climbing area I'm currently at. When I left thailand I left the guide with a guiding service, and I'll do the same in yangshuo
8. First aid supplies, medications for common ailments on the Asian traveler's road, which thankfully I've had to use very few times only for very minor stomach issues, tiger balm... always a climbers best friend, and the typical toiletries toothbrush, deodorant, etc
All of that totals out to be about 38 pounds, give or take a couple. I've found this this to be quite manageable. Even at times when I've had to carry my bag around tropical Thailand for a full days time.
So there you go, you know what to pack, and where to go. Now get out and travel! Until next time, provided my not set a fire, or decapitated by falling rock or bamboo that is.
Zai jian,
-Jordan
Monday, December 10, 2012
Today held an interesting turn of events. My climbing partner, Charlie, has had a mild cold for a few days. But last night and this morning it turned into more of a debilitating stomach issue. Resulting in his inability to belay me let alone climb with me, and he's decided to head back to the states in a week. So as of this morning I no longer had a climbing partner in china. However as I was getting back to the hostel from breakfast a group of three climbers were getting ready to head out to the crag. A three man climbing team is an odd number, and a fourth is always appreciated to speed up the amount of climbs done. Eagerly myself and my rope were invited to egg mountain (yes it's shaped like an egg).
The day started out normal enough. We climbed four moderately difficult routes on the northeast face of the egg. Grades ranging from 5.10a to 5.11b.
We then continued on to the less travelled west face. Taking the first lead (Side note for non climbers, leading meaning to tie into the end of the rope, clipping into intermediate points of protection as you climb. If on was to fall on lead he would fall the equal distance he is above the protection, below it.) I started up the hardest route on the face, a climb called "put on your warface" graded 5.11d. The name reflects an unnervingly long space between bolts of 13feet, where the hardest section of the climb is also conveniently located. At one point on this climb you pass a small cave where a dried up hornet's nest large enough to fit a small child inside of is located, wouldn't want to climb it while it was active!! After reaching the top in good fashion, with no falls or mishaps I passed the rope to my partner, John.
Twenty feet off the ground John grabbed a hold just above a bulge in the rock, when I saw an explosion of dust and the dreaded cry by all climbers alike "ROCK!!!" This situation could not have been handled better by both of us and miraculously end with no injuries on either side of the rope. Thinking quickly John caught about a basket ball size amount of fractured rock in his arms, while another basket ball amount came tumbling towards me. To save both my head and reduce John's fall to a minimum a dove hard to the right, avoiding every pebble.
After this incident he came down to solid ground to recuperate. After 10 minutes or so he went up to finish the climb and clean up the rest of the broken rock for future climbers. We then continued the day to finish the remaining five 5.10 routes on the wall. To Mom and Dad, settle down this is not a common occurrence, I've never seen that much rock break off of a climb.
After a day of chilly, wet climbing I was ready for a good dinner. Reluctant to eat the typical rice noodles and beef, we went to mimosas cafe and got some delicious Mediterranean fare. And for dessert, on the way back to the hostel I bought a six inch long fish on a skewer. Cooked whole, head, skin and all. The bones are soft enough to eat and the sesame seed/chili sauce they roll it in is so tasty.
Because my traveling/climbing partner is sick with who knows what I've opted out to get my own room tonight. First time I've had a bedroom to myself in about two weeks. its amazing what i took for granted in the states. Privacy, peace, and quiet are precious commodities in a country with a growing population of 1.4 billion. So at that thought, goodnight.
Lovin' the traveling life,
-Jordan
The day started out normal enough. We climbed four moderately difficult routes on the northeast face of the egg. Grades ranging from 5.10a to 5.11b.
We then continued on to the less travelled west face. Taking the first lead (Side note for non climbers, leading meaning to tie into the end of the rope, clipping into intermediate points of protection as you climb. If on was to fall on lead he would fall the equal distance he is above the protection, below it.) I started up the hardest route on the face, a climb called "put on your warface" graded 5.11d. The name reflects an unnervingly long space between bolts of 13feet, where the hardest section of the climb is also conveniently located. At one point on this climb you pass a small cave where a dried up hornet's nest large enough to fit a small child inside of is located, wouldn't want to climb it while it was active!! After reaching the top in good fashion, with no falls or mishaps I passed the rope to my partner, John.
Twenty feet off the ground John grabbed a hold just above a bulge in the rock, when I saw an explosion of dust and the dreaded cry by all climbers alike "ROCK!!!" This situation could not have been handled better by both of us and miraculously end with no injuries on either side of the rope. Thinking quickly John caught about a basket ball size amount of fractured rock in his arms, while another basket ball amount came tumbling towards me. To save both my head and reduce John's fall to a minimum a dove hard to the right, avoiding every pebble.
After this incident he came down to solid ground to recuperate. After 10 minutes or so he went up to finish the climb and clean up the rest of the broken rock for future climbers. We then continued the day to finish the remaining five 5.10 routes on the wall. To Mom and Dad, settle down this is not a common occurrence, I've never seen that much rock break off of a climb.
After a day of chilly, wet climbing I was ready for a good dinner. Reluctant to eat the typical rice noodles and beef, we went to mimosas cafe and got some delicious Mediterranean fare. And for dessert, on the way back to the hostel I bought a six inch long fish on a skewer. Cooked whole, head, skin and all. The bones are soft enough to eat and the sesame seed/chili sauce they roll it in is so tasty.
Because my traveling/climbing partner is sick with who knows what I've opted out to get my own room tonight. First time I've had a bedroom to myself in about two weeks. its amazing what i took for granted in the states. Privacy, peace, and quiet are precious commodities in a country with a growing population of 1.4 billion. So at that thought, goodnight.
Lovin' the traveling life,
-Jordan
Saturday, December 8, 2012
My apologies to blog readers out there, I haven't been able to post any thing for over a week because the Chinese government blocks out all social networking sights. However, now I'm posting through my sister Leona, who I trust enough to not tamper with anything the author writes. As a test...If Leona Moore and Matt throop were to have children they would be the most hideous monstrosities ever to set foot on god's green earth. Love you Leona :)
So without further a due, CHINA. I'll try to condense the last 10 days of my life to a short novel. If china has taught my friend Charlie and I anything, it's how to be much more street smart in a foreign country where at every turn some one is looking to take advantage. This fact shouldn't discourage future travelers from visiting this beautiful country. Because after a while it's like a game, who bests who, consumer or producer? In china almost every product and service is up for bargaining. Everything from getting our visas in Hong Kong to getting taxi rides in Youngshuo to purchasing food and clothes.
Our arrival to Yangshuo, China was at 6:00 in the chilly morning, after being awoken by a hasty bus driver, about 30 seconds before being expected to gather our belongings and get off the bus. Immediately we were swarmed by 5 tuk-tuk taxi drivers asking what I assumed to be "where are you going" in Mandarin Chinese. In my groggy state I told them "cheap hostel, cheap hostel". Whether they understood or not I have no idea, but one of the drivers charged us 15 yuan ($2.50) each and took us to a moderately priced hotel. Which after orienting myself in the city once the sun rose I realized was well within walking distance. Chinese lesson # 1: don't trust the taxi driver to take you some where before you know where it is.
Once settled into our over priced hotel for our backpackers budget ( $12/ night, we pay $5/night now) there was a knock on the door. So I answered it and a man who worked at this hotel/travel agency came in, welcoming us to the beautiful Yangshuo and promised to come back shortly with breakfast. Twenty minutes later he returned with a delicious noodle soup with nuts,beef and leafy greens and started showing us pictures of him and his family in Yangshuo's beautiful country side. After about 10 minutes of polite ooing and aweing he began going over prices of guided bike rides, river rafting trips down the
Li river, and guided treks or climbs into the nearby hills.
I'm sure for some people this is exactly what they're looking for in a vacation, but for backpacking climbers, we don't want any guides telling us what's what and where. We want to find it on our own and get lost more times by our misleading directions we found on some half reliable Internet source.
After rejecting the Chinese man's offers, we told him we've come here to climb and that's exactly what we're doing today. He persisted "I have friend to guide you up the rocks!!" Our response was "No, we can go our own, no guide necessary" again demanding "What, are you professional climbers? You don't have ropes or gear for this!" Wrong again china man " yes we do, would you like to take a look in our back packs? :)" So on that note I pursuaded him we were not interested and he finally left. Chinese lesson #2: don't let the travel agents or salesman of any type get a foot hold if you're not interested. NO NOT INTERESTED!
The following days consisted of shaking off a week of sedentary travel by climbing and biking around the country side. On the third day in yangshuo we went to an English school to talk to the principal in hopes of getting a part time English job. He told us he had two positions available at his brother's schools in different places in china where we could have a paid internship, free room, free food, paid flights, and paid work visas. At first glance it appeared to be an excellent opportunity. So we went to the first day of training here in Youngshuo, where we discovered the offer wasn't quite as sweet as we had originally thought. We would have been flown one way to a city with one of the worlds worst air quality ratings. Then would be expected to teach 5 days per week, 4-6 classes per day, with 40-70 elementary aged Chinese children in each class. Needless to say we both decided to send the principal a "thanks but no thanks" email and go climbing :). Chinese lesson #3: don't judge a book by its cover. Or you'll end up wasting a perfectly good climbing day on English teacher training...blah.
Since the English teaching distraction, my days have been much more pleasant. I feel like I've oriented my self in this unorganized madness of a tourist town. Yangshuo is a tourist town, but not many westerner faces to be seen, this is where Chinese people come to vacation and there is a small, but present climbing community. The streets in china are so much more difficult to navigate than in the United States. Nothing runs parallel or perpendicular to anything. I recognize every rode by its approximate location and a restaraunt or bar on the corner. The food in Yangshuo is fantastic, and fantastically cheap. The typical meal consists of rice noodles in a broth or mixed with some sort of sweet, sour, or spicy sauce, then a type of meat is added in small portions, very commonly pork and chicken. This meal usually runs 10-15 yuan ($1.50 - $2.50). If you want to spend an additional $2-5 a whole world of culinary deliciousness opens up. Everything from pork stuffed dumplings to plates of stir fried vegetables in garlic sauce to snail platters to duck roasts, the list goes on and on. And to top of the incredible restaurants, lining the streets are snack carts selling doughnuts glazed in chocolate made right in front of you, meat skewers with spicy sauces, fresh fruit stands, and strange wraps and small plates I can't even describe.
In between meals I've been putting a lot of effort into climbing, especially these last five day or so. I've never had a time in my life where I can focus on a hobby that I love as much as climbing like this. Every chance I get I'm riding my rented pink bicycle to the crags to climb on the amazingly long, dead vertical or overhung routes. And the scenery around the climbing areas is one to rival the American west's. Every where you look dramatic, rocky, vegetation covered mountains rise from the agriculture land below with thick layers of fog snaking between peaks.
I love this place, but because my visa will run out on December 30th I'll have to hit he road. My plan is to avoid flying around the holidays and save myself some money by taking buses down through china and Vietnam, then onward to Laos. I plan to spend some time in the Vietnamese city of Hanoi and in the climbing area Halong Bay. The maybe around mid January Ill catch a bus to Vang Vieng, Laos. Then I would like to ride the train through northern Thailand, stopping in Chiang Mai and Lopburi. This is all hypothetical plans, sounds good now, but who knows who I'll meet or where my back pack will take me. Final lesson of the day: don't trust a backpacker when he's telling you plans any further than the next time he or she blink an eye.
Until next time,
Zai jian (goodbye)
-Jordan
So without further a due, CHINA. I'll try to condense the last 10 days of my life to a short novel. If china has taught my friend Charlie and I anything, it's how to be much more street smart in a foreign country where at every turn some one is looking to take advantage. This fact shouldn't discourage future travelers from visiting this beautiful country. Because after a while it's like a game, who bests who, consumer or producer? In china almost every product and service is up for bargaining. Everything from getting our visas in Hong Kong to getting taxi rides in Youngshuo to purchasing food and clothes.
Our arrival to Yangshuo, China was at 6:00 in the chilly morning, after being awoken by a hasty bus driver, about 30 seconds before being expected to gather our belongings and get off the bus. Immediately we were swarmed by 5 tuk-tuk taxi drivers asking what I assumed to be "where are you going" in Mandarin Chinese. In my groggy state I told them "cheap hostel, cheap hostel". Whether they understood or not I have no idea, but one of the drivers charged us 15 yuan ($2.50) each and took us to a moderately priced hotel. Which after orienting myself in the city once the sun rose I realized was well within walking distance. Chinese lesson # 1: don't trust the taxi driver to take you some where before you know where it is.
Once settled into our over priced hotel for our backpackers budget ( $12/ night, we pay $5/night now) there was a knock on the door. So I answered it and a man who worked at this hotel/travel agency came in, welcoming us to the beautiful Yangshuo and promised to come back shortly with breakfast. Twenty minutes later he returned with a delicious noodle soup with nuts,beef and leafy greens and started showing us pictures of him and his family in Yangshuo's beautiful country side. After about 10 minutes of polite ooing and aweing he began going over prices of guided bike rides, river rafting trips down the
Li river, and guided treks or climbs into the nearby hills.
I'm sure for some people this is exactly what they're looking for in a vacation, but for backpacking climbers, we don't want any guides telling us what's what and where. We want to find it on our own and get lost more times by our misleading directions we found on some half reliable Internet source.
After rejecting the Chinese man's offers, we told him we've come here to climb and that's exactly what we're doing today. He persisted "I have friend to guide you up the rocks!!" Our response was "No, we can go our own, no guide necessary" again demanding "What, are you professional climbers? You don't have ropes or gear for this!" Wrong again china man " yes we do, would you like to take a look in our back packs? :)" So on that note I pursuaded him we were not interested and he finally left. Chinese lesson #2: don't let the travel agents or salesman of any type get a foot hold if you're not interested. NO NOT INTERESTED!
The following days consisted of shaking off a week of sedentary travel by climbing and biking around the country side. On the third day in yangshuo we went to an English school to talk to the principal in hopes of getting a part time English job. He told us he had two positions available at his brother's schools in different places in china where we could have a paid internship, free room, free food, paid flights, and paid work visas. At first glance it appeared to be an excellent opportunity. So we went to the first day of training here in Youngshuo, where we discovered the offer wasn't quite as sweet as we had originally thought. We would have been flown one way to a city with one of the worlds worst air quality ratings. Then would be expected to teach 5 days per week, 4-6 classes per day, with 40-70 elementary aged Chinese children in each class. Needless to say we both decided to send the principal a "thanks but no thanks" email and go climbing :). Chinese lesson #3: don't judge a book by its cover. Or you'll end up wasting a perfectly good climbing day on English teacher training...blah.
Since the English teaching distraction, my days have been much more pleasant. I feel like I've oriented my self in this unorganized madness of a tourist town. Yangshuo is a tourist town, but not many westerner faces to be seen, this is where Chinese people come to vacation and there is a small, but present climbing community. The streets in china are so much more difficult to navigate than in the United States. Nothing runs parallel or perpendicular to anything. I recognize every rode by its approximate location and a restaraunt or bar on the corner. The food in Yangshuo is fantastic, and fantastically cheap. The typical meal consists of rice noodles in a broth or mixed with some sort of sweet, sour, or spicy sauce, then a type of meat is added in small portions, very commonly pork and chicken. This meal usually runs 10-15 yuan ($1.50 - $2.50). If you want to spend an additional $2-5 a whole world of culinary deliciousness opens up. Everything from pork stuffed dumplings to plates of stir fried vegetables in garlic sauce to snail platters to duck roasts, the list goes on and on. And to top of the incredible restaurants, lining the streets are snack carts selling doughnuts glazed in chocolate made right in front of you, meat skewers with spicy sauces, fresh fruit stands, and strange wraps and small plates I can't even describe.
In between meals I've been putting a lot of effort into climbing, especially these last five day or so. I've never had a time in my life where I can focus on a hobby that I love as much as climbing like this. Every chance I get I'm riding my rented pink bicycle to the crags to climb on the amazingly long, dead vertical or overhung routes. And the scenery around the climbing areas is one to rival the American west's. Every where you look dramatic, rocky, vegetation covered mountains rise from the agriculture land below with thick layers of fog snaking between peaks.
I love this place, but because my visa will run out on December 30th I'll have to hit he road. My plan is to avoid flying around the holidays and save myself some money by taking buses down through china and Vietnam, then onward to Laos. I plan to spend some time in the Vietnamese city of Hanoi and in the climbing area Halong Bay. The maybe around mid January Ill catch a bus to Vang Vieng, Laos. Then I would like to ride the train through northern Thailand, stopping in Chiang Mai and Lopburi. This is all hypothetical plans, sounds good now, but who knows who I'll meet or where my back pack will take me. Final lesson of the day: don't trust a backpacker when he's telling you plans any further than the next time he or she blink an eye.
Until next time,
Zai jian (goodbye)
-Jordan
Tuesday, November 27, 2012
Phuket town 11/27/12
Yesterday we rented a motorbike in phangnga and took in into the nearby jungle covered hills under the advice of the man who rented it to us. Our first stop was a waterfall just off the main highway down a trail into the jungle. Unfortunately we didn't get to see the main falls, just the river and short rock falls leading up to it. The trail was cut short by a large jungle vegetation fall, made only possible by wading through river. So we turned around drove onto our next destination, a food market in Thap Put. It seems the further you get from the beaten path the more interesting the people get and the cheaper the food gets! We collected our lunchtime feast of Thai snacks from 3-4 different stands and sat down to eat. Soon following us was glassy-blood shot eyed local man, missing his 4 front teeth, eating a small orange, who sat down at our table. My first thought was " Oh great what does this guy want". But then perfectly formed English sentences came out of his gap toothed mouth, asking us where we were from, and casual small talk. Turns out he was vegetable stand owner at the food market. He then went on to explain how happy he was with his life. How he had many friends around the small town and was perfectly content with his modest income. One of my favorite parts of traveling is the interesting interactions with the people you would never meet if you were to stay home on the couch. Traveling shows you things not even your television can show you. Hear that America! :)
So this morning we jumped on a bus to head down south to Phuket town, where we will stay for a couple nights before we fly out. A couple blocks away from where we got dropped off in Phuket we landed on a dorm style room hostel called Backpacker Phuket. The room was pretty cheap (250 baht, $8) and the nearby market has some good local food. Next post I should be in the Hong Kong airport waiting to get my visa, until then.
Sawadee kap
So this morning we jumped on a bus to head down south to Phuket town, where we will stay for a couple nights before we fly out. A couple blocks away from where we got dropped off in Phuket we landed on a dorm style room hostel called Backpacker Phuket. The room was pretty cheap (250 baht, $8) and the nearby market has some good local food. Next post I should be in the Hong Kong airport waiting to get my visa, until then.
Sawadee kap
Sunday, November 25, 2012
Phang nga, 11-25-12
I Krabi town induced boredom has finally been lifted. We hopped on the bus this morning to a via point between krabi and Phuket airport. In Phang Nga there seems to be a few more activities to satisfy my stir-crazy wanderlust. Today we hiked up to a limestone cave behind a monastery. However we were disappointed to see all the movies at the movie theater we in Thai and every book at the bookstore was in Thai. Tomorrow we will either decide to stay here another day and rent a motorbike to drive to the coast, or jump on another bus to Phuket. We just got back from a lively night market about a mile from our hotel. So many small, cheap, and delicious foods displayed at the markets in two sprawling rows of stands. Everything from spicy barbecue chicken to fish curries wrapped in leaves to exotic fruits and vegetables. YUM!
More research into our china travel plans have shown that Hong Kong is a very expensive city and a visa will take 3-4 business days to process. Spending just a few days in Hong Kong could cost as much as my entire has up to this point, so our best option seems to be spending a few nights in the airport waiting visas. What fun those days will be, NOT! On the bright side I have over 100 novels waiting to be read on my kindle.
More research into our china travel plans have shown that Hong Kong is a very expensive city and a visa will take 3-4 business days to process. Spending just a few days in Hong Kong could cost as much as my entire has up to this point, so our best option seems to be spending a few nights in the airport waiting visas. What fun those days will be, NOT! On the bright side I have over 100 novels waiting to be read on my kindle.
Friday, November 23, 2012
Krabi Town 11/23/12
Charlie and I have left Tonsai beach. Many good people and good times left behind. I believe Tonsai beach was an excellent place to start our travels through asia. It is some what of a cultural bubble in the sense that there are far more tourists than thai locals. However now it is time to see more of asia. We spent the day in walking around Krabi, eating the small plates and snacks at the markets and food carts. There is more authentic thai food here than on Tonsai, due to the fact us tourists were catered to so much on Tonsai beach. As I write this Charlie is a block away getting one of the best impulsive tattoos I've seen. He is getting a tattoo of the phrase "Everything is alright" in Thai lettering. The tattoo artist drew it up quite well and I think it's a fantastic way to remember Thailand and the past two months he spent on Tonsai beach.
We are both getting very excited about Yangshuo, China. Only time will tell how we handle the culture shock of being amongst 1.3 billion Chinese people. Having a travel partner will certainly help. I've been told the 14 sleeper bus we will be taking from Hong Kong to Yangshuo is quite comfortable. For an Asian person 7 inches shorter than me and Charlie that is. So it might be more of a fetal position bus than a sleeper bus. Many adventures are in the future and I can't wait to explore this foreign land to it's fullest potential.
Until then Sawadee Kap
Wednesday, November 21, 2012
So travels plans have changed in the last 24 hours, as expected, travel takes you to the unexpected. I've been climbing with a Californian native named Charlie for the past week or so. We've decided to finally leave tonsai beach and take flight to Hong Kong then overland travel to yangshuo, one of china's best climbing areas. We are leaving tonsai beach tomorrow and traveling around a few southern Thai cities to make our way to Phuket, where we will fly out of on November 29th.
Aside from the planning our trip to china, three of us took a rest day trip to the nearest city. In krabi we rented scooters, if you want to call them that, considering they speed up to 60 mph. Driving on the left side of the road, and fighting traffic in Thailand was a very handlebar gripping, thrilling experience. And to top it off we got lost getting back to our boat and I ran out of gas just 500 feet or so from a gas station. Close call!
Well china here I come and goodbye tonsai beach!
Aside from the planning our trip to china, three of us took a rest day trip to the nearest city. In krabi we rented scooters, if you want to call them that, considering they speed up to 60 mph. Driving on the left side of the road, and fighting traffic in Thailand was a very handlebar gripping, thrilling experience. And to top it off we got lost getting back to our boat and I ran out of gas just 500 feet or so from a gas station. Close call!
Well china here I come and goodbye tonsai beach!
Tuesday, November 13, 2012
Tonsai beach 11/13/12
Sorry to disappoint readers but not a lot to report from the last few days. My days are filled with climbing, reading, swimming, and eating with friends. I have moved bungalows again, due to an obnoxious Thai boy band fan playing that awful music around the clock. By paying an additional 50 baht ($1.75) per night I'm in a much bigger cleaner room. The only downside is electricity is on for only 6 hours from 6pm to midnight and I have to fall asleep to the constant hum of a generator. However I would take the constant hum over the high pitched tones of Thai boybands any day.
I have another climbing adventure to report from last night. While climbing at the thaiwand wall last night with two friends and a Russian woman who had just arrived to tonsai beach that day a torrential downpour came down, followed by a shockingly fast sunset. We had no headlamps and a steep, rocky, muddy trail to descend to get back to the beach. After 15 minutes or so of blindly walking, or sliding I should say, I realized I had my iPhone with a handy dandy flashlight app. Taking the lead I would continue on about 5 meters at a time then turn around and reveal the path to my followers. Though progress was slow and increasingly hard in flip flops we finally reached the trailhead.
I have another climbing adventure to report from last night. While climbing at the thaiwand wall last night with two friends and a Russian woman who had just arrived to tonsai beach that day a torrential downpour came down, followed by a shockingly fast sunset. We had no headlamps and a steep, rocky, muddy trail to descend to get back to the beach. After 15 minutes or so of blindly walking, or sliding I should say, I realized I had my iPhone with a handy dandy flashlight app. Taking the lead I would continue on about 5 meters at a time then turn around and reveal the path to my followers. Though progress was slow and increasingly hard in flip flops we finally reached the trailhead.
Saturday, November 10, 2012
Tonsai Beach 11/11/12
The night before last I was at a Muai Thai boxing fight, which was awesome. But I suspect I ate some bad chicken because I awoke that night at 3:30 A.M. frantically fighting my way to the bathroom. After tangling myself in my neatly tucked in bug net and knocking my fan off its' stand into an explosion of fan blades and covers I spent a good portion of the night in front of the toilet. Needless to say my planned deep water solo climbing trip I had planned the next morning had to leave without me and I spent the day reading in my room and a local tea house. That's alright though, it's to be expected with this trip to take the good with the bad.
Today I feel much better, but it's been raining lightly for the past few hours so I will probably be inside today as well. I was going call the family but I'm having a hard time connecting to the internet from my phone. Right now I'm just at the internet cafe. So if you guys don't hear from me for a while that's why.
And happy birthday Leona! Or in thai "sook san wan kerd".
I hope you're having a great day!
Today I feel much better, but it's been raining lightly for the past few hours so I will probably be inside today as well. I was going call the family but I'm having a hard time connecting to the internet from my phone. Right now I'm just at the internet cafe. So if you guys don't hear from me for a while that's why.
And happy birthday Leona! Or in thai "sook san wan kerd".
I hope you're having a great day!
Thursday, November 8, 2012
Tonsai beach 11/8/12
After climbing seven routes yesterday I awoke this morning to aching muscles, stressed joints, and a bruised leg from swinging off of a climbing route into a tree. So a friend and I decided to go climbing. :)
To our credit we planned on a short day of moderate climbs. But misreading the guide book put me on a more difficult climb than expected.So after many falls and much time passed we left the Thailand wall for a big lunch.
Tonight as I was walking on the beach back to my room 3 local boatmen invited me over to smoke some local herb. So I sat down and one Thai man who spoke English introduced his friend as ladyboy. Not understanding this English term his friend went along with it through the conversation, while the rest of us had many laughs at his expense. Until the multi-lingual man explained to his friend what a ladyboy was. All my experiences with the locals have shown the live up to their international nick name of the "land of smiles".
Here is the link to my Facebook page where all the photos from my trip can be found, let me know if it doesn't workhttps://m.facebook.com/home.php?refid=9
After climbing seven routes yesterday I awoke this morning to aching muscles, stressed joints, and a bruised leg from swinging off of a climbing route into a tree. So a friend and I decided to go climbing. :)
To our credit we planned on a short day of moderate climbs. But misreading the guide book put me on a more difficult climb than expected.So after many falls and much time passed we left the Thailand wall for a big lunch.
Tonight as I was walking on the beach back to my room 3 local boatmen invited me over to smoke some local herb. So I sat down and one Thai man who spoke English introduced his friend as ladyboy. Not understanding this English term his friend went along with it through the conversation, while the rest of us had many laughs at his expense. Until the multi-lingual man explained to his friend what a ladyboy was. All my experiences with the locals have shown the live up to their international nick name of the "land of smiles".
Here is the link to my Facebook page where all the photos from my trip can be found, let me know if it doesn't workhttps://m.facebook.com/home.php?refid=9
Tuesday, November 6, 2012
Tonsai beach 11/6/12
Last night we were at a reggae party watching fire dancers and a skinny Thai guy doing tricks on a slackline. Not many places that kind of party exists on a Monday night :). Today was a rest day from climbing, so we hiked up to a jungle lagoon. Still muddy and slippery from recent rainfall the slope going up to it was only made accessible by ropes put up in the past. I saw a Russian women hiking the slope in flip flops, by what means I have no idea.
Tomorrow I'm planning to try some harder climbing routes, so hopefully I get some interesting stories from that. It's easier to post photos of my travels to Facebook so they can all be found there.
Last night we were at a reggae party watching fire dancers and a skinny Thai guy doing tricks on a slackline. Not many places that kind of party exists on a Monday night :). Today was a rest day from climbing, so we hiked up to a jungle lagoon. Still muddy and slippery from recent rainfall the slope going up to it was only made accessible by ropes put up in the past. I saw a Russian women hiking the slope in flip flops, by what means I have no idea.
Tomorrow I'm planning to try some harder climbing routes, so hopefully I get some interesting stories from that. It's easier to post photos of my travels to Facebook so they can all be found there.
Monday, November 5, 2012
Tonsai Beach 11/5/12
I am finding it extremely easy to find climbing partners whenever I want. All I have to do is walk down the main trail of bars and street vendors with my climbing bag and ask or be asked to go climbing. I am also developing a sense of community here quite fast. I've met quite a few climbers who are on the same traveling plan as I am, stay on tonsai or elsewhere in thailand for the rest of the month, then continue onto the rest of thailand. Today a group of four of us began planning a deep water solo trip sometime in the next week. Three more people and we can pay a boatman to take us out for 700 baht ($22) for the day, lunch included.
As time goes on I am also discovering more and more fantastic food for $2-3 per plate for a healthy quantity. There is a cooking class on Tonsai I might take, but with all the fantastic climbing that is available I might wait until I am Chaing Mai in the months to come.
I'm going to explore some boulders just off the shore with the group I was climbing with earlier. I can only hope the bouldering is as great as the roped climbing here!
Sawasdee Kap
I am finding it extremely easy to find climbing partners whenever I want. All I have to do is walk down the main trail of bars and street vendors with my climbing bag and ask or be asked to go climbing. I am also developing a sense of community here quite fast. I've met quite a few climbers who are on the same traveling plan as I am, stay on tonsai or elsewhere in thailand for the rest of the month, then continue onto the rest of thailand. Today a group of four of us began planning a deep water solo trip sometime in the next week. Three more people and we can pay a boatman to take us out for 700 baht ($22) for the day, lunch included.
As time goes on I am also discovering more and more fantastic food for $2-3 per plate for a healthy quantity. There is a cooking class on Tonsai I might take, but with all the fantastic climbing that is available I might wait until I am Chaing Mai in the months to come.
I'm going to explore some boulders just off the shore with the group I was climbing with earlier. I can only hope the bouldering is as great as the roped climbing here!
Sawasdee Kap
Tonsai Beach 11/4/12
After staying one night on Railay beach I decided the area was too touristy for my liking. And the 800 baht ($25) was much too expensive for the length of my stay. So a short hike through the jungle brought me to tonsai beach. My climbing guide descibes tonsai beach as being in the "climbing scene", and a much cheaper option to Railay. And it was so very right.
First I bought a fresh cut orange/mango/coconut smoothie from a thai woman in a bamboo vendor stand for 50 baht ( about $1.75). Then I walked through the clusters of bungalows to find one the that suited me. I landed on the Andaman Nature Resort which offered me a private bungalow for 250baht per night (about $8) and promised me a discount in the upcoming weeks if I stay.
I must correct myself in an earlier post. When I was bashing Bangkok's crowded streets and "poverty stricken housing" as I put it. Well my modest bungalow is not much more exstravagent than bangkok's residents aside from it's beautiful surroundings. Perhaps Bangkok's crowded city streets are as much paradise to its' people as Tonsai beach is to me.
After staying one night on Railay beach I decided the area was too touristy for my liking. And the 800 baht ($25) was much too expensive for the length of my stay. So a short hike through the jungle brought me to tonsai beach. My climbing guide descibes tonsai beach as being in the "climbing scene", and a much cheaper option to Railay. And it was so very right.
First I bought a fresh cut orange/mango/coconut smoothie from a thai woman in a bamboo vendor stand for 50 baht ( about $1.75). Then I walked through the clusters of bungalows to find one the that suited me. I landed on the Andaman Nature Resort which offered me a private bungalow for 250baht per night (about $8) and promised me a discount in the upcoming weeks if I stay.
I must correct myself in an earlier post. When I was bashing Bangkok's crowded streets and "poverty stricken housing" as I put it. Well my modest bungalow is not much more exstravagent than bangkok's residents aside from it's beautiful surroundings. Perhaps Bangkok's crowded city streets are as much paradise to its' people as Tonsai beach is to me.
Saturday, November 3, 2012
Tonsai/ Railey Beach 11/3/12
I have never taken so many modes of transportation in a 24 hour period. I took a taxi to the train station in Bangkok, a train to Seaurat Thani where I was awoken at 5:00 a.m. to get on a bus to Krabi. Then from Krabi a shared taxi to Ao Nang, and finally a longtail boat from Ao Nang to Railey beach. So here I am at Railey beach, Thailand's climbing mecca, in a bungalow of my own. Now is when the fun starts!! I just arrived and a short walk to my hotel revealed the climbing community I will be staying with for the rest of the month (if plans don't change that is). And the monolithic jungle covered limestone cliffs are more gorgeous than pictures could have shown. This place is paradise. And I haven't even scratched the surface.
I apologize to my family I haven't been able to call but the one time to mom and dad. I need to figure out how to one unlock my phone, which I don't know what that means. And then find a local SIM card. Or just buy a prepaid phone, which may be simpler. But rest assured I am safe.
Also I will upload some pictures to the blog tomorrow.
Love everyone back in the states, and I miss you.
Now I'm going CLIMBING FINALLY!
I have never taken so many modes of transportation in a 24 hour period. I took a taxi to the train station in Bangkok, a train to Seaurat Thani where I was awoken at 5:00 a.m. to get on a bus to Krabi. Then from Krabi a shared taxi to Ao Nang, and finally a longtail boat from Ao Nang to Railey beach. So here I am at Railey beach, Thailand's climbing mecca, in a bungalow of my own. Now is when the fun starts!! I just arrived and a short walk to my hotel revealed the climbing community I will be staying with for the rest of the month (if plans don't change that is). And the monolithic jungle covered limestone cliffs are more gorgeous than pictures could have shown. This place is paradise. And I haven't even scratched the surface.
I apologize to my family I haven't been able to call but the one time to mom and dad. I need to figure out how to one unlock my phone, which I don't know what that means. And then find a local SIM card. Or just buy a prepaid phone, which may be simpler. But rest assured I am safe.
Also I will upload some pictures to the blog tomorrow.
Love everyone back in the states, and I miss you.
Now I'm going CLIMBING FINALLY!
Bangkok 11/2/12
I've been trying to keep a written journal of my travels to add to this blog so you may see backdated entries like this one....
One day in this quintessential concrete jungle and I am sent running for the nearest train station, which took 2hours of fighting traffic in a taxi. I don't doubt bangkok has it's hidden treasures, but I did not see them in the short time I was there. I wandered through an endless sprawl of street vendors and markets with 2-3 stores of poverty stricken housing sitting a top. By the end of the day Bangkok's smog gave me the lungs of a chain smoker. Leaving that behind, in Hualamphong train station the backpacks on fellow traveller's backs tell me I will be in good company. In about 12 hours time I will be on Tonsai beach near Thailand's famous limestone cliffs. Until then sawadee kap.
I've been trying to keep a written journal of my travels to add to this blog so you may see backdated entries like this one....
One day in this quintessential concrete jungle and I am sent running for the nearest train station, which took 2hours of fighting traffic in a taxi. I don't doubt bangkok has it's hidden treasures, but I did not see them in the short time I was there. I wandered through an endless sprawl of street vendors and markets with 2-3 stores of poverty stricken housing sitting a top. By the end of the day Bangkok's smog gave me the lungs of a chain smoker. Leaving that behind, in Hualamphong train station the backpacks on fellow traveller's backs tell me I will be in good company. In about 12 hours time I will be on Tonsai beach near Thailand's famous limestone cliffs. Until then sawadee kap.
Thursday, November 1, 2012
Thailand night number 1
After sitting on planes and in airports for the past 24 hours I finally reach my destination. Many people speak fairly good English. But if I had some more Thai phrases to contribute to the conversation I suspect my life would be much easier. I will get on that. As I sit in my first Thai hotel room, drinking my first Thai beer I think I need some people to share the beer with, who speak English! So tomorrows objective will be making my way to a climbing area to find limestone sport climbing and sport climbers. Another full day of travel is ahead of me, so I'll report back when I have some interesting stories and pictures later in the week.
Sunday, October 7, 2012
Not all who wander are lost.
One way flight to Bangkok, 10:35a.m., October 31st - CHECK
Passport - CHECK
vaccinations - CHECK
Naive sense of adventure and overly active curiosity of the world - CHECK :)
After a summer of penny pinching and two years of climbing in Colorado I will be traveling one way to Thailand this Halloween. Following in the footsteps of dirt bag climbers before me, I will be living on the cheap, less money spent = more travel, and more climbing :) If any one reading this has the resources and time to leave their life in the states, you are more than welcome to find me on the vagabond road.
Sawadee Kap, (hello, and goodbye in Thai)
Jordan Moore
First destination from Bangkok will be the overhung limestone cliffs of southern Thailand's coast.
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| Then it's off to Ha Long Bay, Vietnam for a few weeks when my Thai visa expires on November 29th
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